How to Eat Grilled Fish in Ryokans Properly

Staying at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, is an unforgettable cultural experience. One of the highlights of a ryokan stay is the authentic kaiseki meals, which often include beautifully grilled fish (yakizakana). Unlike Western-style fish dishes, grilled fish in a ryokan is usually served whole, complete with head, tail, and bones. If you’re unfamiliar with Japanese dining etiquette, knowing how to eat the fish properly can enhance your appreciation of the meal and prevent any dining mishaps. In this guide, we will walk you through the best way to eat grilled fish in a ryokan, ensuring that you savor every bite with respect and cultural understanding.

Understanding the Presentation

When your meal is served, you may find a whole fish neatly placed on a plate, accompanied by simple yet well-thought-out garnishes. Common types of grilled fish in ryokans include:

• Ayu (Sweetfish): A delicate freshwater fish with a slightly sweet flavor.
• Saba (Mackerel): A rich, oily fish often served with a touch of grated daikon radish.
• Sanma (Pacific Saury): A seasonal fish, usually grilled in autumn with a crispy exterior.
• Salmon (Sake): A widely enjoyed fish, sometimes lightly salted or marinated in miso.

The fish is traditionally placed with its head to the left and tail to the right, following Japanese dining customs. This placement aligns with the way chopsticks are used and symbolizes proper meal presentation. Alongside the fish, you might find:

• Grated daikon radish: Helps balance the oiliness of the fish.
• Lemon wedge or shiso leaf: Adds a refreshing contrast to the fish’s flavor.
• Soy sauce or miso-based dressing: Provides additional umami depth.
• Rice, miso soup, and pickles: Essential components of a traditional Japanese meal.

Tools for Eating

To properly eat grilled fish in a ryokan, you will use the following utensils:

• Chopsticks: The primary tool for picking apart the fish and eating the meat.
• Small dish for bones: Some ryokans provide a separate plate for placing discarded bones.
• Handy napkin: For cleaning your fingers if needed.

If you are not confident with chopsticks, it might take a little practice, but following a step-by-step approach will make the process easier.

Step-by-Step Guide to Eating the Fish

1. Start with the Head Side

In Japan, it is customary to eat from left to right, following the natural placement of the fish. Use your chopsticks to start at the head and move toward the tail.

2. Removing the Skin (Optional)

Some people enjoy eating the crispy grilled skin, while others prefer peeling it back to expose the tender meat. If you wish to remove the skin, use your chopsticks to gently lift it and place it aside.

3. Separating the Flesh from the Bones

Begin flaking the meat from the top side of the fish using your chopsticks. Carefully lift small portions, avoiding the bones as much as possible. Take small bites and savor the delicate flavors.

Avoid flipping the fish over—it is considered bad luck in Japan, particularly for fishermen. Instead, finish eating the top portion first.

4. Removing the Spine

Once the top portion is eaten, use your chopsticks to gently lift the central spine from the tail end. This should allow easy access to the bottom half of the fish. Discard the bones neatly on the side plate if provided.

5. Eating the Bottom Half

After removing the spine, eat the remaining flesh in the same head-to-tail manner. Be cautious of smaller bones, as some fish contain fine, needle-like bones that can be tricky to detect.

6. Handling the Leftovers

In Japanese culture, finishing your meal neatly is a sign of respect. Try to leave the bones, head, and tail arranged tidily on your plate. If you are dining with others, avoid playing with food remnants, as this may be considered impolite.

Additional Eating Tips

Pairing with Side Dishes

Eating grilled fish in a ryokan is not just about the fish itself; the side dishes enhance the meal’s overall flavor profile. Try alternating bites of fish with:

• Steamed rice: Neutralizes any oiliness from the fish.
• Miso soup: Complements the umami of the grilled fish.
• Japanese pickles (tsukemono): Adds a refreshing, tangy contrast.

Using Condiments

If your fish is accompanied by condiments, use them sparingly to enhance—not overpower—the natural flavor.

• A small drizzle of soy sauce can bring out umami richness.
• A squeeze of lemon adds brightness and freshness.
• A dab of grated daikon radish helps cleanse the palate.

Mindful Eating

Japanese dining is as much about appreciation as it is about eating. Take small bites, chew slowly, and admire the craftsmanship of the preparation. Many ryokans pride themselves on using fresh, locally sourced ingredients, so savoring each bite is part of the experience.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Flipping the fish over: This is considered bad luck and should be avoided. Instead, remove the spine carefully and eat the bottom half.
2. Leaving a messy plate: Try to keep bones and leftovers neatly placed.
3. Drenching the fish in soy sauce: The fish is typically seasoned to perfection, so use condiments in moderation.
4. Using fingers excessively: While some bones might require careful removal, try to rely on chopsticks as much as possible.
5. Ignoring the head and tail: Some Japanese diners appreciate the flavors in these parts, although it is not necessary to eat them.

Conclusion

Eating grilled fish in a ryokan is more than just a meal—it is an art that reflects Japanese culinary traditions. By following these etiquette guidelines, you can enjoy your dining experience with authenticity and respect. From understanding the presentation to mastering chopstick techniques, each step enhances the appreciation of Japan’s rich food culture. So the next time you find yourself in a ryokan, take your time, enjoy the flavors, and immerse yourself in this timeless dining experience.

Whether you’re new to Japanese cuisine or a seasoned traveler, learning how to properly eat grilled fish will allow you to fully engage with one of Japan’s most treasured culinary customs. Happy dining.